the beach

(yesterday - Thusday 14 August)
Got up and went for breakfast. Not the greatest and went back to the hotel and asked if there was a laundry.

side note:
Don't remember what I said regarding laundry. In Veracruz there is a laundry place near my hotel and Lonely Planet says its open from 8 am till ??. So I went at 8 (being smart I went without my dirty laundry) and they were closed. Went back at 9 and they were closed. Went back to my hotel and asked for a laundry and they directed me to the same place - I said when do they open and she said 10. Went back and they were closed, went to the business next door and they said they open more or less when they feel like it - they really don't have regular hours. She offered if I had my clothes there to drop them off when (or maybe if) they opened. I said thanks and said screw it. I remembered in my toilet kit I had some small packets of tide - so I washed by hand in the sink 3 changes of t-shirts, socks and underpants.

They gave me directions and I found it - so went back and dropped off my clothes (will pick them up this afternoon. Went back to the hotel, paid for friday night, left my backpack and went to the beach (20 minutes max - 10 P) by bus.

The beach is not pretty. Its got garbage issues. Parts are clean and pleasant, other parts aren't. There is a power plant a several miles down the beach and the Tuxpan River empties on the other side. Its a minor port but there is still some river traffic. All that is really needed is a couple of employees and it would be really nice. The water seemed clean enough and it really is charming since it was completely empty of tourists - there was me and only me near as I could tell.

I got off at the end of the bus run and started walking down the beach thinking to myself, 'where the hell are the hotels'

note: use of the word hotel in latin america is different than in the USA. A hotel might only have 10 rooms, but it is a hotel. We think of hotels as big.

I was under the impression there was several. This gal walked up to me asking if I wanted to rent a table (more on that later) and I said, "no, I need a room for the night". She said, "follow me, my mom rents rooms". So I went with her and rented a room for 300 P (my most expensive night). There were 3 rooms above their restaraunt. I had a shower, toilet and a bed - not bad.

As we were walking to her moms place we were talking and she asked me where I learned spanish. This question always makes me feel good - I can speak another language. Of course, maybe she was thinking, boy does his Spanish suck - I wonder who taught him such crap.

Afterwards I took a walk down the beach and stopped at a place for a beer and water. There was an old fart there selling lemons to the owner and he decided to drink a beer with me. Normally I would enjoy this as I like meeting the people. However I could not understand a word he said. But we were lifelong buddies apparently, so I ended up drinking beer with him for at least 1 1/2 hours - understanding virtually nothing. (hmm, I wonder what she meant by, "where did you learn spanish"?)

After he left I had a shrimp coctail (my new favorite food) and then headed back to my place.

The remaining part of my day was spent chatting with the family or dozing on the hammock. I spent probably 4 hours or more talking with the owner, 2 daughters (including the one that took me to the place) and a son in law. These are the memories that I most cherish about traveling - shooting the shit in Spanish with the locals. The most interesting conversation was with the son in law. His impression of Americans is that they come down to Mexico but have no use for Mexicans. Arrogant was a word he used. He said that I am the only American that he has met that wants to talk to the locals - I wonder where the expression 'ugly american' came from. Its really a shame as yesterday was the most interesting day that I spent in Mexico - I need to spend more time getting off the beaten path.

For dinner I decided on shrimp coctail. But the owner also gave me 2 fish fillets - they weren't the greatest but it was nice of her (maybe she felt guilty for charging me 300 P when she found out I wasn't your average gringo).

After the sun went down (8???) I went for a quick swim, had another beer and went to bed.

Took a run in the morning, had breakfast and headed back to Tuxpan. Got back around 10.

Went to the bus station and the only bus to the border (Matamoros) is at 8 pm so I bought a ticket to Tampico that leaves at 8:18 am. Will decide what to do once I get to Tampico.

Tuxpan

I arrived in Tuxpan sometime between 3 and 4 (pm) on wed the 13th of august. The ride was somewhat uneventfull (once I got on the bus). I am the biggest worrier - I have never been really stranded, so why do I worry so much? Its no wonder I have high blood pressure. But alas I worried again today. We arrived in Poza Rica and the driver said we had 1/2 hr (shit, as I am only 40 min. from Tuxpan) but he makes us get off the bus and then holy fuck, the doors close and he takes off - so here I am with my debit cards, passport, some cash and nothing else. My laptop, cameras, gifts, clothes, etc. in the bus. I tried to tell myself, 'calm yourself you lunatic' - gas, etc., he will be back duh. But worry I did - and, yeah - he pulled back up in the exact same spot.


(The view from the street of my hotel)

I got off the bus and headed straight for the taxi queue and went to my hotel (Hotel Posada San Ignacio (25 P taxi). Loney planet gave it a decent review as a budget place and when the driver pulled up I thought to myself, shit - what a dump. And then as I looked past the front I thought this could be good - it is awsome (200 P).






(the view entering the doorway - see picture above)












(the view in the courtyard)












I immediately dumped my packpack and asked how to get to the museum (I had to go across the river - and there was supposed to be lanchas) and was there lanchas - she told me how to get there, well cross the river and go right. I asked what the price was for the lanch 'for a gringo' and they thought that was funny - but 3 P. It was extremely easy to cross the river and then I headed right but I was unsure where to go. A guy was coming down the dirt road on his motorcycle (slowly) so I flagged him down (understand this is on the edge of a small town - not in the country) and asked him how to get to the museum and he started to tell me and I started to say something and he told me to hop on and he drove me there (maybe 4 blocks with 2 turns) - I am siempre astounded by the friendliness of people in latin america - we (US) could take some lessons.

note: Castro, Che and his group (82 in total I think) left for from this town (in an overcrowed boat - damn near didn't make it to Cuba) to begin the revolution - well restart it (Castro had already begun before and spent several years in Prison0 - and the museum is the house that Castro (and others ?) stayed in. The name of the museum is 'Museo de la Amistad Mexico - Cuba'. It was nothing special, but given my interest it was special.

I have decided tomorrow to go to the beach and leave my backpack here. The guy in the office said that thursday shouldn't be a problem finding a room and they could store my pack. Then I will stay one more night here and head north. The beach is supposed to be nothing special but clean and free of tourists (until the weekend). I have seen nobody that looks like a foreigner here. It is 12 km from town.

other things

On the ride to veracruz I talked (albeit very little) with the guy next to me and he convinced me that I need to go to Catemaco (its on Laguna Catemaco) and near San Andres Tuxtla (cigar producing area). The laguna (large) was beautiful from the bus, and I almost go off the bus in San Andres Tuxtla - but I didn't and will be back - it would be a great short week trip - fly to Veracruz spend a night and then go to the lake and San Andres for a few days and then spend another night in Veracruz and leave.

buses

I have only been traveling on ADO which is really first class - beats the hell out greyhound (the difference is amazing - greyhound sucks (big time - no its worse, I can't explain my distain for greyhound - its beyond explination) and Mexican bus lines (first class) are well, first class) - and ADO has a class higher that I haven't been on.

I have seen quite a few movies in the last week (on the bus) and its amazing how much I get - of course it doesn't take rocket science to follow a movie. Speaking of which, there is a movie theater here (tuxpan) - friday night I might just go to the movies...

to visa or not to visa?

I am here in Tuxpan.

Today I had to decide whether or not to get legal in Mexico. To make my visa `valid´ I needed to go to the bank and pay 237 P. Normally its a no brainer because I need that piece of paper to leave the country. Normally because when you leave at the US border the rules are different. There is a `buffer´ zone more or less in Mexico (I think for 50 km) where the visa is not needed. So when you enter its different than entering Guatemala. I was sorely tempted (I mean why should I pay about $24 when I can get away with not paying it) but then I thought about all the bs that one has to go thru just to ask for a visa to come to the US. Last year Yesi payed 100 Q for a card which was good for one call to the embasy to make the appointment (thats about $13). Then she traveled to Guate by bus (both ways 120 Q) and she had to stay in a hotel for the night (I think it was around 100Q for the hotel). We are now up to about $60. She then had to take a taxi to the embasy, lay down $100 cash and then 10 minutes later her request came back (w/o an explanation) `denied´. All in all with taxis, food, etc $200 just to ask to visit the US. I decided it was just plain dumb to even think about not paying when I am allowed to visit Mexico when I ever I want.

I went to the bank today and paid my 237 P.

side note - Yesi applied a 2nd time and was granted a 15 day visa - what a bunch of bastards - they can´t stop the problem of illiegals so they do the next best thing - stop honest tourists from visiting - of course the illiegals keep on a truckin´.

Leaving Veracruz

This is going to be disjointed.

I spent 2 nights (1 full day) in Veracruz. My buss leaves at 10:18 this morning for Tuxpan. As normal I am here waay too early. I got here at 8:30. Its not enough that I have to sit on a bus for 6 hours I also have to sit in the terminal for almost 2 hours.

Had breakfast in the Zocalo right in front of a hotel and was able to get on line (great connection). I first went to the place I had breakfast yesterday and they were open (7 am) but not serving breakfast for another 20 minutes. Apparently they were just finishing up last night. There was 2 or 3 tables of guys still (I assume 'still' is appropriate) drinking from last night. Are bars and restaraunts able to serve here 24 - 7?

Had shrimp for lunch and dinner. Very expensive but I am here, and it seems not to have shrimp when I am by the sea shore. Actually paid 115 P for dinner (plus beer) and 95 P (I think) for lunch (plus beer).

This terminal is kind of crazy. Seems like a bus is leaving every 5 minutes or even faster. Hope I don't miss my bus.

note: I didn´t miss the bus but it was impossible to know when to leave the waiting area. Normally there is a person at the door and if I´m not sure he/she will look at my ticket and then tell me. Today there wasn´t and the place is big. I went out and asked the gal (security) and the guy next to her said (to the gal), ¨tell him to wait here and then you can can tell him when the bus is here¨ (not a bad idea). It worked. The problem (besides not understanding the loud speaker) is that my bus was a `paseo´, which means it came in from somewhere else and just picked up a few people. It makes it harder that way than if it originates in the town.

I entered Mexico on a shuttle with 2 English speaking gals (one from England and one from Quebec (french speaking)) and since I have not heard one tourist speaking English and I am almost thru mexico. Now I have seen other tourists that I haven't heard, but I also haven't seen many tourists since Palenque( of course I have only been in 2 towns since Palenque).

Yesterday I resisted the temptation to buy Cuban Cigars (small box for 100 P complete with stamp) I am now regretting my decision. I still can't believe our stand (USA) after all these years re: Cuba. Well maybe in Tuxpan at the museum there will be something from Cuba that I can buy - maybe a t-shirt to cross the border in.

more later.

Villahermosa to Veracruz

well I am in Villahermosa, a town near the Carribean (maybe an hour which is a wild guess) Its a city of over a half million (think) but the down town is nice. I have seen a total of 5 people that appear to be tourists- which makes it nice. The downtown has quite a few streets that are just pedestrian ways and a nice area for eating/drinking on the river. I am staying at the Hotel Oriente for 220 Pesos. Its nice (I'm on the 4th floor) but not any breeze (87 degrees in my room) but the ceiling fan should suffice (not much choice). The ride from Palenque was bout 2 1/2 hours (100 P). I bought a ticket for tommorow to Veracruz for 342 P that leaves at 10:00. I think its about 7 hours.
I wandered around town quite a bit today - had lunch and 2 beers soon as I got here by the river. The lunch was good (very) and the beer was 15 P for Negra Modela. The waiter tried to sit me in the shade and I wanted to be by the sun - that lasted about 3 minutes and I moved to the shade - suffice to say it was hot. The rest of the day was just walking around. There is a tower (quite high) on the pedestrian bridge over the river that you are supposed to be able to climb. It was closed - I was dissapointed.
Rained like crazy around 7 pm - super loud thunder and bright lightning. Super hard rain but for less than an hour. I had dinner outside (under cover) during the rain. It was across the street at an expensive hotel. The food wasn't bad (not great - just ok) and expensive. The beer was 30 Q for Negra Modelo (ouch).
Generally speaking the beer seems to cost less than in Guatemala and it is a better beer - or at least there are more options. Rooms are more and food not sure...
Not much else to say.buenas noches
good morning
I'm at the bus station, but can't get connected to the internet. For some reason It is hit and miss to connect. There are 2 symbols when I try to create a connection; locked and unlocked. There must be something else to try that I haven't figured out.
Had coffee across the street in the same plae (the sign says free wireless - no signal though). Just had coffee (2 cups) and it was 28 P - yikes.
Yesterday from the station to my hotel 20 P, this morning 15 P. I got here in my usual anal way at 8:25 for my 10:00 bus. I think its a 7 hour more or less ride. Seats more comfortable than greyhound but yesterday I was sitting next to the fatest man in Mexico, thus it was a bit tight (why me? Once from Tapachula to San Pedro Sula I was next to the fatest man in Honduras - must be a world record).
I'm in Veracruz (9:47 pm) can't connect to the internet and didn't see an internet place (well I saw one tiny one that was filled) and I'm wondering why the hell the packers are losing - it will be a fun year (yeah right - they will suck). Monday night basebol was on espn where I ate supper so I knew the 3rd qtr score by the ticker on the bottom.
The bus left on time (10:01) and I was walking off the bus at 7:29 - long day. 30 P taxi to my hotel (forget the name) and 150 P for my room. Last night I was on the "4th" floor and today I am on the "3rd" floor. Why the quotes? well the first floor is really the 2nd, etc. Not bad except that my backback is heavy - shit I forgot. In Coban, much higher elevation, I had to walk up a steep (very) hill and damn near died.
I plan to spend at least 2 nights here. The city (central) is awsome. Probably my second favorite next to Guanajuato. Tomorrow will be busy. Laundry, explore, bus station for my next ticket, and hang out next to the beach.
From here I plan to go to Tuxpan which is the town (famous) for where Che and Castro took off to launch their revolution against Batista in Cuba. There is a museum there (apparently not much else). Its possible that I will go to Xalapa first and then Tuxpan (not exactly sure).
hasta pronto

Palenque

The pictures are from the border crossing.

I bought a ticket in Flores to go to Palenque for 260 Q. Expensive but included the ride to the border, boat ride down the river and ride to Palenque. Sure it was doable without using an agency but it would've been alot of switching of microbuses. Ito took the advanture out of it but its OK.

Left at about 5:30 am, even though it was supposed to leave by 5 (anal me was ready at 4:30). Arrived in Palenque at 1 pm guate time, but because of daylight savings time was 2. The boat ride was at least 1/2 hour but was interesting.

Staying at Hotel Regional for 180 Pesos (near as I figure the exchange rate is about 10 pesos to the dollar - not sure exactly but assuming I bought my Quetzals for 7.45/dollar then I got pesos at the border for 8.88 pesos/dollar by changing 300 Q - not wise but I hated being w/o pesos or small US bills.

Not much else new or exciting.

Flores day 2

Flores day 2
(views from Cool Beans)

today was a day to chill and relax - drank gallons of water lots of coffee and just relaxed. Got up at 6 am and then again at 7 am for good. Went to cool beans and had breakfast and ran into David again and then went back to my hotel to hang out and read.

Finished Sand County Almanac today (thank Don even if took me over a year to read it), I read half of it last year and never finished it so I reread the first half and finished it. I need to reread the whole thing again. I wonder what he (author) would say today...I passed the book on.

Tommorow I head for Palenque - I bought a ticket on a tourist shuttle that leaves at 5 am. The shuttle goes to Bethel (I think - maybe La Tecnica) and then have a launcha (boat with outboard) to cross the river and then (hopefully) there will be a shuttle on the otherside waiting for us. We are supposed to arrive in Palenque at 1 pm which is really noon Guatemala time - assuming that was figured into it when he told me. It would be more fun to have just gone, but for the money (260 Q) it probably pays to take the 'safe' way vs the more adventuresome mode of travel - and it will probably be more comfortable...

Hotel La Canoa
phone:
7867-5222
5553-1465


further note:
at 8:38 its 84 degrees farenheit in my room - with the fan I am more than comfortable - in fact its borderline perfect - would be stuffy w/o the fan, but if the room had more natural ventilation I wouldn't need (or want) the fan -
when I got up at 4:15 am it was 82 in the room, but cool outside.

Coban to Flores

yesterday I left my room at 7:30 am and walked down to casa blanca hostal to have breakfast. Had lunch here the day fefore and it seems like a very friendly place - I will stay here when I come back. I returned at 9 to wait for my shuttle to flores and have a 2nd cup of coffee - my assumption was that a tourist shuttle would stop for piss breaks - it did and a lunch break also. There was 13 people on the bus 2 from israel, 1 swiss, 2 english, 2 from the US and 6 from Italy Quite a collection. I started talking to the other guy from the US before we left and I talked to him durring the breaks - we were the last 2 picked up and he was in the front (lucky) and I was in the back. Haven't checked out his work yet

www.farbelism.com
www.imagecentralamerica.com

he is a painter and photagrapher - interesting guy (49). We hung out last night and had a few beer and dinner in Flores.

The ride was uneventfull except for the ferry to cross the river just before the cutoff for Bethel - unfortunately I won't have the opportunity to take the ferry tommorow as I am headed to Bethel. I will include a few photos below.

I am staying in the same place that I have stayed in the other 2 times I was here. 60Q with private bath. Very simple but pleasant enough. 12Q for a beer. The owner recognized me - she said , ¨You have been here before haven´t you¨. I was somewhat surprised as I haven´t been here in 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 years.








Note the thatched roof over the motor - 40hp outboard powers the ferry






There are 2 outboards but only one is being used. The barrel like things swivel

garbage

Some other thoughts

Yesterday I was thinking how nice the view was - there was (for Guatemala) very little garbage on the road - maybe the equivalent of the US and then out in the middle of nowhere there was (and it was visible for miles) a dump. Its as if someone said we'll dump here down this mountain side - gravity will take most of it away. It was clearly the dump of a small community. My thought was god is that ugly - why would they dump there. and then I started thinking about our garbage. Its not visible so we don't think about it - even when I go to the dump I don't see the garbage - it just goes in huge dumpster and gets hauled away. We are more sophisticated in our garbage disposable, but we generate an obscene amount of garbage. How much waste is generated to buy a SD card? The packaging that we use is ridiculous (I understand that small items have a ton of packaging to stop theft) - who are we to make comments about Guatemalan garbage? and yet gringos constantly are making comments - sure its ugly, but they are generating alot less than us. What can we do? Recycling is a start, but is that just a feel good thing? It makes no sense to throw an aluminum can in the ground - hell people will pay you for the can so it has value not to mention there is not an infinite supply of aluminum oxide (or whatever they mine) but how about my bottle of beer? If I recycle it how much energy is expanded before it becomes part of a product again? Is it better to dump it - is the final cost to earth greater in the recyling or in the dumping - why don't I know these things. And then why now do we not have reusable bottles? Obviously for the beer companies its cheaper to produce disposable bottles but as far as the cost to earth - what is more expensive. In a handful of states you have deposits on the bottles so they are returned to the store, why not reuse them. When i was young I remember (albeit very vaguely) the milk man coming to the house and If I remember milk was delivered in non disposable bottles - those days are gone (and I don't drink milk anyway). I can (and do) buy beer in my growler, but there is only one place in Manitowoc that I can do that at, and they don't always have the beer that I like enough to take home. and back to my SD card (boy am I rambling) why is it that when we buy a product online it comes with the same ridiculous packaging? Online shopping is becoming the future of shopping - why not change the packaging - the online stores deal in such huge bulk that it would make much more sense to due away with the packaging. I'm going to see what I can do to stop generating garbage (as I have a plastic bottle of water in front of me) - no more 'to go' cups of coffee in Styrofoam.

If I want to be more environmentally conscious where do I draw the line? Trying to buy products in less packaging sounds good - even easy, but what takes more energy and makes more waste - buying a can of tomatoes or fresh tomatoes out of season? How much energy is used to can a can of tomatoes and ship them vs shipping from wherever and keeping them 'fresh'. I can't help but think that its more 'environmentally friendly' to buy the canned tomatoes - I guess I am thinking too much.

later

Nebaj to Coban

I left for Coban at 9 am this morning (note that this is an experiment - is it worth it t0 bring my keyboard? after 2 lines I think it is. This is a royal pain in the ass to type on - maybe I'll get used to it)

anyway back to todays trip. I left the hotel at 8:30 sans cafe and aparently my cell phone for the 2nd time in a month - yikes. I don't think I ever misplaced my cell phone in the 10 years that I have had one - now twice in a month. I left the hotel and went to the bus terminal - they said I had to go 3 blocks up for a microbus to Sacapulus. So I trudged back up and I didn't see any microbusses (sp?) and so asked in a tienda and they said 1 block over and I found one. 15Q to go to Sacapulus and a guy was getting off (this microbus was Quiche bound) and I asked him where do I catch a bus for Coban and he said across the street and there was one waiting there. It was going to Uspantan which is on the way. I probably waited 15 minutes for it to fill up and then we took off for Uspantan.

Now you have to look at a map to see how stupid this was. At 10:45 I came to the fork in the road that said Nebaj (15 km) and Uspantan. In other words I had been on the road for 105 minutes and had gone 15 km. I had talked to the guy at the hotel about it yesterday and he said it might be easier to go to Sacapulus but wasn't necessary. Boy was he right - what a waste of time. Anyway this phase of my trip was 20Q and was interesting - the driver clearly was going to get laid or something in Uspantan because he was driving as crazy as any driver I have ever seen. But we made it safe and sound even if it was in record time.

In Uspantan I caught a microbus to Coban - the ride from hell, but for different reasons. My map says the road is "under repair" - to be under repair implies that it was constructed in the first place - probably half the trip was on rutted earth/gravel - my poor body. There is no room for legs (of a gringo) and it was a long ride. 30Q and I arrived at 3:35 and took a cab to el centro. The cabby reccomended a place and I had him take me there - it was ok, but for a few $ more I could find a place without staying in a dorm. This place was 40Q for a dorm and I stayed in a place (hotel paz) for 73.20 Q. Where did they come up with 20 centavos?
Its ok, private bath.

Next time in Coban I want to check this place out to stay:
Casa Blanca hostal
(my copy of lonely planet calls this place Chipi Chipi Hostel)
I think they have private rooms also
1 calle 3-25
zone 1
7951-4213

I had problems finding it (Hotel Paz) - I asked an old fart (yeah Angie, older than me) which direction 6th ave was and he told me the wrong way after a lot of thinking and irrelevant questions. As I was walking someone asked me if I needed help and I said yeah, "where is hotel paz on 6th ave" - and he (after talking to someone else) gave me perfect directions. I don't think that would happen at home (strangers helping strangers).

I checked out tours to Semuc Champey and decided that it would be more fun with someone else - so It will wait (Deb??). Got a shuttle to Flores tommorow for 125Q that leaves at 10am. Bought myself my first present - a t-shirt that says in spanish:

la cerveza
mata lentamente...
no importa
no tengo prisa...

beer
kills slowly
its not important
I'm not in a hurry

Well not much else new - checked out el centro and want to come back here. Maybe I'll come back in 5 years with lil pete (granddaughter), I think she would think that Semuc Champey beats the hell out of any man made water park - besides she needs to meet the rest of the family and my niece (Sheny's daughter) is only 7 months older than her.

Buenas Noches.

Copoc y Rio Azul

Well as I am writing this I clearly survived - but will I be functioning tomorrow?

I had breakfast at 7ish and went back to el descanso at 8:15 to check out the news (read that as 'how is Rodgers doing and what is the latest Favre news').

I was ready at 8:45 and walked next door to the guide place and the gal told me that there would be 2 more people going (instant panic - i was woried as it was about climbing uphill and if the 2 were young Europeans - uh oh). She gave me back 50Q - the more the cheaper. The 2 were 35 yr old spanish guys - real nice and I didn't hold anyone back (although they had the energy to go to the falls afterward that I went to yesterday). I made a huge mistake and asked the guide how many km we would be walking - he told me "8 km up and then 6 km down and then we would return by camineta" - boy was it up - 8 steady km up and up and up - but the views were awsome - something tells me that the pictures really won't do the vistas justice.

(this picture was taken at 11:31 at the highest point - thats Nebaj where I started from)

Actually it wasn't a horrid climb - we went slow but steady and took 2 breaks. basically we reached the top of our climb in just over 1 1/2 hrs. Then we started down for a bit and came to copoc. The village was really - i hunt for the correct adjective. Its a traditional village. 40+ homes and 300+ inhabitants. The thought that I had and didn't ask- lastima - what about the gene pool - they all have to be related - do they traditionally marry outside the village? hmm...

The road to copoc was definately drivable - not sure my geo would make it - but we saw no vehicles go past although there was a truck in the town. The school has 3 teachers who make the trek daily from Nebaj (both ways on foot and I'm dead - yikes), but it is only a primary school -3 kids that go on must also make the trek daily to Nebaj (not sure if its common or not). The village was very quiet, tranquil, clean and simple. We stopped at a tienda and I bought a piece of bread and the guys bought water. They also bought some handicrafts and took pictures with the promise of sending them a copy. Not sure on the ages - but the mom seemed young and had 3 kids and on of the kids had 9 month old twins - cute. Its really hard to judge ages and the people out in the country marry so damn young.

From the village we walked on trails that were muddy, yucky and did I mention muddy? These were trails that were a pain to walk on, but I didn't fall - slipped and almost fell several times but didn't embarress my self. The thought actually entered my mind several times that it was easier climbing up then it was going down.

We got to Rio Azul - which I believe was one of the towns that the army created... need to do more research on this - the conservation went over my head...

I'm beat and need to sleep.
buenas noches

las cataratas

This morning after breakfast (again at Restaurante El descanso) I went back to the hotel and asked the manager how to get to the falls - he gave me clear directions (not that it was hard to find) and I left at 8:30 and walked until 10:15 - I went somewhat past the falls. The problem is the whole damn way was downhill - I knew it would not be as easy going back. It was increadible - the vistas were beautiful (increadibly beautiful) and the garbage was horrible (increadibly horrible). Guatemala is a gorgeous country but the people litter like crazy. Actually most of the countryside was relatively liter free - it was the river that was dirty The people that I passed were all friendly. Every time I waved (2 motorcycles, 1 4 wheeler, and a pick up) they honked in response (or does that mean up yours gringo?). I waved at 2 guys coming down the mountain towards their pickup and when they went past me stopped and asked where I was going. When I was on my way back they passed me again and asked if I wanted a ride - I declined as I was on a hike - seemed cheating to get a ride back for the dificult (ok, not that dificult) part.

I'm going to try and put all the pictures up in picaso (sp?) with a link to the blog. Right now I am writing this with my laptop and will transfer it later. Most of the blogs (albeit aparently an insufficient quantity) have been written on my laptop.

I bit the bullet and am staying an extra night here - I am going on a hike tommorow - hired a guide. 6 hours - tengo miedo. It looks like about the same distance that I walked today, but uphill (as in a mountain). I am going to Cocop which is accesible aparently only by foot and was one of the hardest hit villages during the war. I might never come this way again so it pays to take this hike - 125Q which is much more than the lonely planet guide book says ($10) - but I think it will be well worth it.

Hasta pronto

Day 3 - Pana to Nebaj

Left pana at about 8:30 - only 1 small cup of coffee. Caught a guate bound bus so didn't have to switch in Solola (5Q pana to los encuentros). Took a leak in los encuentros (always a concern) Caught a camineta for Quiche so didn't have to switch in Chichi (15Q - I think). This bus exemplified the busses of Guatemala - I swear they put my pack uptop, unloaded 20+ people and 20+ got on in less than 1 minute. There was only a couple of people ahead of me but they (the local mayans) just forced their way - there was no line. I can't (by my standards) be rude and force my way (well not much anyway) because I feel like I am being a rude visitor. This time the ayudante yelled at me, "amigo" and I jumped in the back. I actually managed to get on and off all 3 busses from the back (without hitting my head - a first) - one of the ayudantes did warn me about my head. In Quiche (pissed again) I boarded a bus for Nebaj but had to wait for 45 minutes for it to take off. The ride from Quiche to Nebaj was spectacular. For a ways the road is the same that goes to huehue but then branches offf north. The scenery is spectacular. I had my camera in my bag in the overhead rack and didn't want to force people to move so I didn't take any pictures - hopefully I will get good pictures when I leave tommmorow. The entire ride was unbelievable scenery - words can't describe the beauty - the pictures I didn't take probably could.

Arrived in Nebaj at 1:30. Made reservations at 'media luna media sol' from the internet (www.hostelworld.com). I never have had problems with reservations from this page till yesterday. No reservation, no vacancy,

I was put out to say the least, but hey its supposed to be an adventure. Found (easily) hotel Naab'a' for 65Q, private bath, cable TV. The owner(manager ?) is an extremely friendly guy so I am OK with the 'problem'. However I do need to write to hostelworld because my card (I think) was charged about $3 for the reservation.

Hotel Del Centro Naab'a'
3a calle 3-18 Zona 1
phone;
7755-8101
5531-9130

I ate lunch and dinner at Restaraunte Descanso (which is affiliated with the hostel that didn't have my reservation). Its a neat place that was started by a Peace Corp Volunteer in 2001 as a way 'to create sustainable work opportunities for young people'. They have internet, restaraunt (13Q for a gallo) and a guide service. I don't know but am assuming its owned as a cooperative more or less.

This region of Guatemala was hit hard during the civil war - supposedly as hard as anyplace. This region is supposed to be very traditional. Their are half/full day hikes to outlying villages - not sure I am up to it or not. hmm

Mostly just chilled. Tommorow if I can find them I am going to walk to the local waterfalls - supposed to be about 75' high.

Don't let the bed bugs bite

Don't let the bed bugs bite.....

So Sheny invited me over for my last 3 nights. The first night I had several bites - smart mosquitos I thought, never heard them and they attacked my lower leg. The next night more and Yesi said, "those aren't mosquito bites". The next night I had more and then Sheny said, "ahh, Natalie (swiss girl) brought them with her. The last time she was here she brought them and Jose (Joe from Portland) got bit. She must have brought them again. Well ok, I was hitting the road so no problem right? wrong? I must have brought them to pana or they were worse in my room there -

The next day (itchy as hell) I planned my attack. First I bought calamine lotion - didn't know they even had it but went to the pharmacy and asked for something for the itch from bug bites. Next I bought raid (yeah, so much for an environmentaly friendly conservative - if I can't get along with you I bomb the shit out of you) and returned to my room. I fumigated the shit out of my bed (probably lost a year or so of my life) and took a shower and changed all my clothes. I then went to a laundry mat that I had found (most places you just drop off your clothes) and washed my clothes and the shorts I sleep in (it was a real small load as I had had my laundry done the day before). The laundry mat was 20Q for a load (each washing and drying) so it was expensive. The gal working there said she would let me know when my load was done so I could put them in the dryer (I went for a beer) and then when I went to check to see if they were dry she was folding them (what a sweetheart). When I got back to my room I refumigated - those fuckers are dead.

end or problem, end of story. WMD's prevail once again.guess u gotta wait for this one

Day 1 and 2

I left huehue yesterday at 10 am (actually left the school at 9:40) and went to the terminal. Got a guate bound bus - not sure what to call it - not a micro bus and certainly not a chicken bus - more like an extra large micro bus. Cost to la cuchilla was 40Q. (note for future reference - la cuchilla is just about at km marker 133)
I stayed at Montefur for 42Q/night and am here for 2 nights.
Just sort of hung out - had lunch with Candelaria yesterday and today and bought 150 bracelets from her mom (2Q each) and ran into Concepcion and she was selling bracelets for 2.5Q (bigger ones) but when I asked her about the ones like the majority of what I bought they were 1Q - hmm. I bought 4 of Concepcion's bracelets for 10Q that are in the colors of Jamaica - wonder what it is about them that my students like????
Tomorrow I am headed for Nebaj and have reservations for 2 nights ($6 US/night). I am guessing it will take me a min of 5 busses to get there - will let you know. Right now I am sitting in a bar and connected from someones wireless - I'm guessing its the bar, but not sure. Right now I'm in Pana Arte which is owned by the brother of Margarita who is the owner of Maragritas Restaraunt in huehue which is right across the street from the stadium. I go there often for a beer after I leave the orphanage.
buenas noches

Esperanza

ah Esperanza - her name means hope - how much is there really for her?
Esperanza is a child whose father (aparantley) fathered many children with his daughter - so her father is her grand father. The word when I first met her was eight kids and that he killed 6 of them. Later I heard something that maybe he didn't and that there was other siblings living somewhere else. All I know for sure is that mom, her and an older sister live at the fundacion. The mom is a shell of a person - just sort of shuffles around, which is an improvement from 2 years ago where she was a zombie who just stood in place - although she stands alot now - she doesn't contribute, but then there is really nothing left of her. I'm guessing that it would take years of work to repair her psyche(?). Irma the older (maybe 12 or 13) is in first grade primary(I think) - but has learning/intelligence(?) issues. However, she can talk.
Esperanza has hearing issues and severe speach issues. She is maybe 6 years old - nobody knows, and is finally learning to talk - not in sentances but in words. look, thank you, bathroom, etc. Everyday I hear her say more words. She can count to at least 10 which is something considering 1 year ago she could say papi, and a few names and thats it. In march I gave her a bracelet from my wrist and put it on her ankle. The first day I came back in June she pointed to the bracelet (still there) and to me and smiled. Which at first suprised me but I am sure she has somewhat reasonable intelligence. Is she CD? or just LD? using our labels. Again who knows - if you can't talk how can you comunicate? learn? or even demonstrated your intelligence? I started giving her coins this year (normally 1Q) and she would run to the farmacia (the fundacion has a small pharmacy) and buy a small little bag of snacks. One time I gave her 30 centavos and she gave it back - can't buy shit for 30 cents. From then on occasionally I would try and give her a 10 centavo coin and she always refuses it - but she never refuses 50 centavos or 1Q - or paper money.
Twice I left the fundación without her but went with Estelita. Both times when I came back she ignored me - usually she is like glue at my side. Both times that she was ignoring me she gave me a big hug and a kiss as I was leaving, but up to leaving you could tell she was pissed that I had left without her the previous time. One of the times when she was ignoring me was the next day. She is extremely jeolous of attention that I give the others her age or smaller.
My worry for her - as is for alot of the kids is: what is her future? and I can't give help to all of them. For her to go to school - and there is a 'special ed' school in huehue I guess, you would need transportation - the money just doesn't exist.
ciao

Paty y Estelita

a bit more on my daughters:

Paty is now 17 and in first grade basico - which would be like 7th grade in our system. She is doing ok in school, hanging on but isn't a strong student - but when I met her in 2003 she was 12 and had never been to school (maybe she was in her first year - but I don't think so) and couldn't read at all. She has come a long way and has her head screwed on straight. She is very religious which I think helps. I was talking to her about my concerns re: the other girls leaving the fundacion (she is the last of the older girls that had been there for years) and the fact that Estelita is counting on her. I told her that I hope she stays until both her (not likely) and Estilita (likely) graduate from high school. She told me, "It was their decision to leave and I am not like them, don't worry my friend is God". I am confident in her.

Estilita is 12 and is in 6th grade primary (same as our system) and is finally doing good - last marking period all her grades were 90% and up. When I asked her what was different she said, "I want to be a singer and I have to do good in school, before I didn't care and was bored". I'm not sure I see the conection between school and singing - but whatever works. Actually there was a connection - I am now paying for voice lessons 1 hour per week, and it was made clear that her performance in school had something to do with this oportunity. Everyone - me, Sandra and Otto stressed to her that she needs to keep her grades up - I hope she was listening. I also told her that if she took advantage of this opportunity that there would be more in the future (guitar etc). Unfortunetly I'm not sure there is a way to make a living as a singer (not to mention a singer just interested in christian music) but its her dream and if along the way she gets her education then all is good.

Paty and Estilita are both "leaders" in the fundacion. Estelita and another girl (I always forget her name, but a real sweetheart also) have the little ones (4- 6 yr olds I would guess) and their is about 6 of them and Paty (alone I think) has the next group (maybe 7 - 12). Not sure how many. They are responsible to make sure they are clean, teeth brushed etc. They sleep in the same room with them. I spent most of my time with estelitas girls. They eat in their rooms - they set up tables and bring in the food in big serving dishes and sit down together at tables and eat. The girls make sure they say grace (its cute with the little ones) and afterwords they clean up. They used to eat in a big common room - this is more 'family like' and I like it.

By and large I would say the girls are doing really good - they now have email accounts so hopefully I can write to them a tad more.





Estelita y Esperanza at the feria after they got their trensas

Saying Goodby

Well people are wondering if I'm still alive. Well only Don and Angie. I'm alive and kicking. As normal I spent the last 5 weeks studying (my word, definitely not the word my teachers would use) and visiting my girls. I went to pana, chichi and Quiche one weekend but due to my getting sick the last 2 weeks I didn't get out of huehue. I got the worst damn cold and cough. At its worst I wasn't sleeping at all at night, just coughing - no fever, the doc listened to my lungs - no problem, just a virus I guess.
This past week Sheny (director of the school) wanted me to stay for 2 more days (free lessons) and to stay at the school - I did, but instead of lessons I worked with her on the computer.

I was leaving on thursday morning so wed was my last day. Since there was a group of gringos with an activity on wed at the fundación salvación they gave me a going away party. Its normal to have an activity where they sing, dance, etc - however they had a dinner specially for me. Sandra had asked what I would like, chicken? or what was my favorite food. I told her that my favorite meal was tortillas, eggs, frijoles and rice. It really is just about my favorite food for dinner here. So thats what we had - it was really good. They always give me a gift (doesn't Sandra realize I am traveling with a backpack?), but this time my grand daughter got a present also (lucky kid got one from Sheny also). Paty and Estilita had to say something and give me the gifts. Estelita was first and could barely talk - I couldn't hear her standing next to her, she was fighting back the tears. Paty flat out couldn't talk and just sobbed - a precurser to the next day.

The next day was my last and I didn't want to hang out at the fundación after saying goodby so I just picked up paty and estelita (and esperanza) so that they could do what all good teenage girls do - spend dads money (sorry Angie - I forgot about that part when you were younger). Estelita is taking voice lessons 1 hour per week and its important that she gets there on time so I wanted to buy her a watch. Paty wanted cd's and they both wanted small packpacks. The only thing that esperanza asked for was somehting to eat (less than $1). I wanted to buy esperanza a stuffed animal so we went to this small stuffed animal store and I told her she could have any stuffed animal that she wanted - what did she pick? a big ugly thing - dora? is that from the dora the explorer that I have heard about? not sure, but there sure were cuter things than that to pick from - oh well, its her present - not mine. Well it was time to say goodby - I don't think that Esperanza understood that I was leaving - but maybe.

Anyway I brought Paty and Estelita into the office to say goodby. The poor girls - Estelita just sobbed in my arms and Paty was crying (truth be told I was also). There just is no easy way, the kids had a really rough life and I have been the only constant (go figure - me and the word constant) in their life besides the orphanage. I dearly love those girls...