Nebaj to Coban

I left for Coban at 9 am this morning (note that this is an experiment - is it worth it t0 bring my keyboard? after 2 lines I think it is. This is a royal pain in the ass to type on - maybe I'll get used to it)

anyway back to todays trip. I left the hotel at 8:30 sans cafe and aparently my cell phone for the 2nd time in a month - yikes. I don't think I ever misplaced my cell phone in the 10 years that I have had one - now twice in a month. I left the hotel and went to the bus terminal - they said I had to go 3 blocks up for a microbus to Sacapulus. So I trudged back up and I didn't see any microbusses (sp?) and so asked in a tienda and they said 1 block over and I found one. 15Q to go to Sacapulus and a guy was getting off (this microbus was Quiche bound) and I asked him where do I catch a bus for Coban and he said across the street and there was one waiting there. It was going to Uspantan which is on the way. I probably waited 15 minutes for it to fill up and then we took off for Uspantan.

Now you have to look at a map to see how stupid this was. At 10:45 I came to the fork in the road that said Nebaj (15 km) and Uspantan. In other words I had been on the road for 105 minutes and had gone 15 km. I had talked to the guy at the hotel about it yesterday and he said it might be easier to go to Sacapulus but wasn't necessary. Boy was he right - what a waste of time. Anyway this phase of my trip was 20Q and was interesting - the driver clearly was going to get laid or something in Uspantan because he was driving as crazy as any driver I have ever seen. But we made it safe and sound even if it was in record time.

In Uspantan I caught a microbus to Coban - the ride from hell, but for different reasons. My map says the road is "under repair" - to be under repair implies that it was constructed in the first place - probably half the trip was on rutted earth/gravel - my poor body. There is no room for legs (of a gringo) and it was a long ride. 30Q and I arrived at 3:35 and took a cab to el centro. The cabby reccomended a place and I had him take me there - it was ok, but for a few $ more I could find a place without staying in a dorm. This place was 40Q for a dorm and I stayed in a place (hotel paz) for 73.20 Q. Where did they come up with 20 centavos?
Its ok, private bath.

Next time in Coban I want to check this place out to stay:
Casa Blanca hostal
(my copy of lonely planet calls this place Chipi Chipi Hostel)
I think they have private rooms also
1 calle 3-25
zone 1
7951-4213

I had problems finding it (Hotel Paz) - I asked an old fart (yeah Angie, older than me) which direction 6th ave was and he told me the wrong way after a lot of thinking and irrelevant questions. As I was walking someone asked me if I needed help and I said yeah, "where is hotel paz on 6th ave" - and he (after talking to someone else) gave me perfect directions. I don't think that would happen at home (strangers helping strangers).

I checked out tours to Semuc Champey and decided that it would be more fun with someone else - so It will wait (Deb??). Got a shuttle to Flores tommorow for 125Q that leaves at 10am. Bought myself my first present - a t-shirt that says in spanish:

la cerveza
mata lentamente...
no importa
no tengo prisa...

beer
kills slowly
its not important
I'm not in a hurry

Well not much else new - checked out el centro and want to come back here. Maybe I'll come back in 5 years with lil pete (granddaughter), I think she would think that Semuc Champey beats the hell out of any man made water park - besides she needs to meet the rest of the family and my niece (Sheny's daughter) is only 7 months older than her.

Buenas Noches.

Copoc y Rio Azul

Well as I am writing this I clearly survived - but will I be functioning tomorrow?

I had breakfast at 7ish and went back to el descanso at 8:15 to check out the news (read that as 'how is Rodgers doing and what is the latest Favre news').

I was ready at 8:45 and walked next door to the guide place and the gal told me that there would be 2 more people going (instant panic - i was woried as it was about climbing uphill and if the 2 were young Europeans - uh oh). She gave me back 50Q - the more the cheaper. The 2 were 35 yr old spanish guys - real nice and I didn't hold anyone back (although they had the energy to go to the falls afterward that I went to yesterday). I made a huge mistake and asked the guide how many km we would be walking - he told me "8 km up and then 6 km down and then we would return by camineta" - boy was it up - 8 steady km up and up and up - but the views were awsome - something tells me that the pictures really won't do the vistas justice.

(this picture was taken at 11:31 at the highest point - thats Nebaj where I started from)

Actually it wasn't a horrid climb - we went slow but steady and took 2 breaks. basically we reached the top of our climb in just over 1 1/2 hrs. Then we started down for a bit and came to copoc. The village was really - i hunt for the correct adjective. Its a traditional village. 40+ homes and 300+ inhabitants. The thought that I had and didn't ask- lastima - what about the gene pool - they all have to be related - do they traditionally marry outside the village? hmm...

The road to copoc was definately drivable - not sure my geo would make it - but we saw no vehicles go past although there was a truck in the town. The school has 3 teachers who make the trek daily from Nebaj (both ways on foot and I'm dead - yikes), but it is only a primary school -3 kids that go on must also make the trek daily to Nebaj (not sure if its common or not). The village was very quiet, tranquil, clean and simple. We stopped at a tienda and I bought a piece of bread and the guys bought water. They also bought some handicrafts and took pictures with the promise of sending them a copy. Not sure on the ages - but the mom seemed young and had 3 kids and on of the kids had 9 month old twins - cute. Its really hard to judge ages and the people out in the country marry so damn young.

From the village we walked on trails that were muddy, yucky and did I mention muddy? These were trails that were a pain to walk on, but I didn't fall - slipped and almost fell several times but didn't embarress my self. The thought actually entered my mind several times that it was easier climbing up then it was going down.

We got to Rio Azul - which I believe was one of the towns that the army created... need to do more research on this - the conservation went over my head...

I'm beat and need to sleep.
buenas noches

las cataratas

This morning after breakfast (again at Restaurante El descanso) I went back to the hotel and asked the manager how to get to the falls - he gave me clear directions (not that it was hard to find) and I left at 8:30 and walked until 10:15 - I went somewhat past the falls. The problem is the whole damn way was downhill - I knew it would not be as easy going back. It was increadible - the vistas were beautiful (increadibly beautiful) and the garbage was horrible (increadibly horrible). Guatemala is a gorgeous country but the people litter like crazy. Actually most of the countryside was relatively liter free - it was the river that was dirty The people that I passed were all friendly. Every time I waved (2 motorcycles, 1 4 wheeler, and a pick up) they honked in response (or does that mean up yours gringo?). I waved at 2 guys coming down the mountain towards their pickup and when they went past me stopped and asked where I was going. When I was on my way back they passed me again and asked if I wanted a ride - I declined as I was on a hike - seemed cheating to get a ride back for the dificult (ok, not that dificult) part.

I'm going to try and put all the pictures up in picaso (sp?) with a link to the blog. Right now I am writing this with my laptop and will transfer it later. Most of the blogs (albeit aparently an insufficient quantity) have been written on my laptop.

I bit the bullet and am staying an extra night here - I am going on a hike tommorow - hired a guide. 6 hours - tengo miedo. It looks like about the same distance that I walked today, but uphill (as in a mountain). I am going to Cocop which is accesible aparently only by foot and was one of the hardest hit villages during the war. I might never come this way again so it pays to take this hike - 125Q which is much more than the lonely planet guide book says ($10) - but I think it will be well worth it.

Hasta pronto

Day 3 - Pana to Nebaj

Left pana at about 8:30 - only 1 small cup of coffee. Caught a guate bound bus so didn't have to switch in Solola (5Q pana to los encuentros). Took a leak in los encuentros (always a concern) Caught a camineta for Quiche so didn't have to switch in Chichi (15Q - I think). This bus exemplified the busses of Guatemala - I swear they put my pack uptop, unloaded 20+ people and 20+ got on in less than 1 minute. There was only a couple of people ahead of me but they (the local mayans) just forced their way - there was no line. I can't (by my standards) be rude and force my way (well not much anyway) because I feel like I am being a rude visitor. This time the ayudante yelled at me, "amigo" and I jumped in the back. I actually managed to get on and off all 3 busses from the back (without hitting my head - a first) - one of the ayudantes did warn me about my head. In Quiche (pissed again) I boarded a bus for Nebaj but had to wait for 45 minutes for it to take off. The ride from Quiche to Nebaj was spectacular. For a ways the road is the same that goes to huehue but then branches offf north. The scenery is spectacular. I had my camera in my bag in the overhead rack and didn't want to force people to move so I didn't take any pictures - hopefully I will get good pictures when I leave tommmorow. The entire ride was unbelievable scenery - words can't describe the beauty - the pictures I didn't take probably could.

Arrived in Nebaj at 1:30. Made reservations at 'media luna media sol' from the internet (www.hostelworld.com). I never have had problems with reservations from this page till yesterday. No reservation, no vacancy,

I was put out to say the least, but hey its supposed to be an adventure. Found (easily) hotel Naab'a' for 65Q, private bath, cable TV. The owner(manager ?) is an extremely friendly guy so I am OK with the 'problem'. However I do need to write to hostelworld because my card (I think) was charged about $3 for the reservation.

Hotel Del Centro Naab'a'
3a calle 3-18 Zona 1
phone;
7755-8101
5531-9130

I ate lunch and dinner at Restaraunte Descanso (which is affiliated with the hostel that didn't have my reservation). Its a neat place that was started by a Peace Corp Volunteer in 2001 as a way 'to create sustainable work opportunities for young people'. They have internet, restaraunt (13Q for a gallo) and a guide service. I don't know but am assuming its owned as a cooperative more or less.

This region of Guatemala was hit hard during the civil war - supposedly as hard as anyplace. This region is supposed to be very traditional. Their are half/full day hikes to outlying villages - not sure I am up to it or not. hmm

Mostly just chilled. Tommorow if I can find them I am going to walk to the local waterfalls - supposed to be about 75' high.

Don't let the bed bugs bite

Don't let the bed bugs bite.....

So Sheny invited me over for my last 3 nights. The first night I had several bites - smart mosquitos I thought, never heard them and they attacked my lower leg. The next night more and Yesi said, "those aren't mosquito bites". The next night I had more and then Sheny said, "ahh, Natalie (swiss girl) brought them with her. The last time she was here she brought them and Jose (Joe from Portland) got bit. She must have brought them again. Well ok, I was hitting the road so no problem right? wrong? I must have brought them to pana or they were worse in my room there -

The next day (itchy as hell) I planned my attack. First I bought calamine lotion - didn't know they even had it but went to the pharmacy and asked for something for the itch from bug bites. Next I bought raid (yeah, so much for an environmentaly friendly conservative - if I can't get along with you I bomb the shit out of you) and returned to my room. I fumigated the shit out of my bed (probably lost a year or so of my life) and took a shower and changed all my clothes. I then went to a laundry mat that I had found (most places you just drop off your clothes) and washed my clothes and the shorts I sleep in (it was a real small load as I had had my laundry done the day before). The laundry mat was 20Q for a load (each washing and drying) so it was expensive. The gal working there said she would let me know when my load was done so I could put them in the dryer (I went for a beer) and then when I went to check to see if they were dry she was folding them (what a sweetheart). When I got back to my room I refumigated - those fuckers are dead.

end or problem, end of story. WMD's prevail once again.guess u gotta wait for this one

Day 1 and 2

I left huehue yesterday at 10 am (actually left the school at 9:40) and went to the terminal. Got a guate bound bus - not sure what to call it - not a micro bus and certainly not a chicken bus - more like an extra large micro bus. Cost to la cuchilla was 40Q. (note for future reference - la cuchilla is just about at km marker 133)
I stayed at Montefur for 42Q/night and am here for 2 nights.
Just sort of hung out - had lunch with Candelaria yesterday and today and bought 150 bracelets from her mom (2Q each) and ran into Concepcion and she was selling bracelets for 2.5Q (bigger ones) but when I asked her about the ones like the majority of what I bought they were 1Q - hmm. I bought 4 of Concepcion's bracelets for 10Q that are in the colors of Jamaica - wonder what it is about them that my students like????
Tomorrow I am headed for Nebaj and have reservations for 2 nights ($6 US/night). I am guessing it will take me a min of 5 busses to get there - will let you know. Right now I am sitting in a bar and connected from someones wireless - I'm guessing its the bar, but not sure. Right now I'm in Pana Arte which is owned by the brother of Margarita who is the owner of Maragritas Restaraunt in huehue which is right across the street from the stadium. I go there often for a beer after I leave the orphanage.
buenas noches

Esperanza

ah Esperanza - her name means hope - how much is there really for her?
Esperanza is a child whose father (aparantley) fathered many children with his daughter - so her father is her grand father. The word when I first met her was eight kids and that he killed 6 of them. Later I heard something that maybe he didn't and that there was other siblings living somewhere else. All I know for sure is that mom, her and an older sister live at the fundacion. The mom is a shell of a person - just sort of shuffles around, which is an improvement from 2 years ago where she was a zombie who just stood in place - although she stands alot now - she doesn't contribute, but then there is really nothing left of her. I'm guessing that it would take years of work to repair her psyche(?). Irma the older (maybe 12 or 13) is in first grade primary(I think) - but has learning/intelligence(?) issues. However, she can talk.
Esperanza has hearing issues and severe speach issues. She is maybe 6 years old - nobody knows, and is finally learning to talk - not in sentances but in words. look, thank you, bathroom, etc. Everyday I hear her say more words. She can count to at least 10 which is something considering 1 year ago she could say papi, and a few names and thats it. In march I gave her a bracelet from my wrist and put it on her ankle. The first day I came back in June she pointed to the bracelet (still there) and to me and smiled. Which at first suprised me but I am sure she has somewhat reasonable intelligence. Is she CD? or just LD? using our labels. Again who knows - if you can't talk how can you comunicate? learn? or even demonstrated your intelligence? I started giving her coins this year (normally 1Q) and she would run to the farmacia (the fundacion has a small pharmacy) and buy a small little bag of snacks. One time I gave her 30 centavos and she gave it back - can't buy shit for 30 cents. From then on occasionally I would try and give her a 10 centavo coin and she always refuses it - but she never refuses 50 centavos or 1Q - or paper money.
Twice I left the fundación without her but went with Estelita. Both times when I came back she ignored me - usually she is like glue at my side. Both times that she was ignoring me she gave me a big hug and a kiss as I was leaving, but up to leaving you could tell she was pissed that I had left without her the previous time. One of the times when she was ignoring me was the next day. She is extremely jeolous of attention that I give the others her age or smaller.
My worry for her - as is for alot of the kids is: what is her future? and I can't give help to all of them. For her to go to school - and there is a 'special ed' school in huehue I guess, you would need transportation - the money just doesn't exist.
ciao